Drive two-and-a-half hours north along the coast from Los Angeles, and you’ll come upon a tiny town nestled within the Santa Ynez Valley that is quietly offering up some of the best food and wine in California.
BY ARIEL OKIN
Published: December 19, 2023
An eclectic, under-the-radar gem that’s virtually walkable end-to-end, Los Olivos has been heralded as “the new Napa,” with almost 30 tasting rooms packed into its two-and-a-half square miles. Some of the Golden State’s most layered and interesting organic and biodynamic wines are on offer here, with pinots and Chardonnays particular standouts.
Interspersed among lavender fields and horse farms, Los Olivos has a bucolic vibe. But don’t let the folksiness fool you: Over the past five years, a sophisticated food and hospitality scene has taken root here, making Los Olivos the hidden gem of Santa Barbara County. It should top the list of any food and wine connoisseur seeking a destination off the beaten track.
Below, our guide to the best places to stay, eat, shop, and see in small and mighty Los Olivos.
Where to Stay
Auberge Resorts Collection’s The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern is a destination unto itself, and the heart and soul of Los Olivos. The recently reopened 67-room resort made its debut in 1886 as a 19th-century stagecoach stop—and the original cottages have been meticulously renovated and restored to blend seamlessly with the new and airy clapboard bedrooms in the property’s guest house. The renovation preserved the property’s original architectural details, alongside elevated additions, like clawfoot soaking tubs, in-room fireplaces, and a rustic-meets-modern California cool aesthetic. The food and beverage program at the resort is bar none, offering up some of the most innovative menus in town courtesy of Chef Rhoda Magbitang. (More on that below.) With a gorgeous pool and spa, the hotel is both beautifully appointed and perfectly situated, just a short distance from a myriad of tasting rooms, local shops, artisan bakeries, art galleries, and more.
Located on Grand Avenue in the center of Los Olivos, the charming Fess Parker Wine Country Inn is named after its founder, the locally beloved late actor and winemaker Fess Parker. With thoughtfully appointed guest cottages, the recently renovated 19-room, third-generation boutique hotel is run by Parker’s granddaughter, Amanda Parker White, and other members of the Parker family. With its own eponymous estate winery (named a Wine & Spirits Top 100 Winery two years in the running), as well as a recently revamped tasting garden, Epiphany (a complimentary tasting is included with every stay), as well as a brewery, Fess Parker offers a variety of tasting experiences, with great dining on-site, too.
Where to Eat
Los Olivos’s signature mix of local ingredients and culinary savoir-faire is epitomized by Bar Le Côte, James Beard Award nominee Daisy Ryan’s love letter to fresh Californian seafood, prepared with soupçon of Spanish and Portuguese influence. (Ryan and her husband Greg, both alums of Per Se, opened the Michelin-starred French-inspired Bell’s in nearby Los Alamos six years ago, and have earned a cult following in the area, and beyond.) Housed in a stylish tavern, Bar Le Côte is a must-dine for uni and oyster lovers alike. Make reservations here, or try for a walk-in table. (Also don’t miss Preidete Barbeque, which pops up behind Bell’s on Saturdays for BBQ and Sundays for burgers.)
As previously noted, The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern provides one of Los Olivos’ culinary highlights: The eponymous Mattei’s Tavern is led by Executive Chef Rhoda Magbitang, who trained under culinary luminaries like José Andrés and ascended to the role of Executive Chef at The Chateau Marmont and Petit Ermitage in Los Angeles before landing at The Inn. A California ranch-inspired restaurant, Mattei’s Tavern shines a light on local ingredients, many of which are harvested from the restaurant’s on-site garden and surrounding local farms, in Auberge tradition. Paying homage to its roots as a waystation for weary stagecoachers, the menu is unfussy yet elevated, and the restaurant’s exceptional wine program is a draw on its own. (Pro tip: try the Crown Point Cabernet.) The Bar at The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern is worth a separate visit: Offering snacks and larger dishes, including a pretty insane crispy chicken sandwich, the bar is consistently packed with a cool crowd, and open daily.
For a more casual meal, Nella Kitchen + Bar, on the property of Fess Parker, is another great spot to take in the local scene, and the pinsas (think: pizza meets light and fluffy pita) are not to be missed. And if you’re feeling peckish in between tastings, try Bob’s Well Bread Bakery, a local favorite for high-quality pastries hand-made with natural ingredients. Felix Feed & Coffee, another offering at The Inn, scratches the breakfast itch with frittatas, coffee, and all types of toasts and sandwiches, and Panino is the perfect local sandwich spot.
Where to Drink
We’d be remiss to not give wine its own section in this guide to Los Olivos, which likely boasts more tasting rooms per square mile than any other town in California. There are over 170 vineyards in Santa Ynez Valley, a region with the highest concentration of women vintners in the country. Los Olivos crackling with creative energy in the wine scene.
One of the best tasting rooms to hit up during your stay is Stolpman Vineyards, known for their gorgeous, small-batch natural wines. Visit their Los Olivos Patio for estate wines, or Fresh Garage for more eclectic offerings.
The Other Room, another offering from the Ryans, is a beer and wine bar with a beautifully curated list worth checking out, and frequent local programming on tap as well.
If you fancy yourself some Chardonnay, Liquid Farm pours some of the best in the Santa Ynez Valley. This vineyard produces Old World-style wine that simultaneously embraces the local Santa Barbara County viticulture and climate.
And don’t miss Story of Soil, helmed by vintner Jessica Gasca, whose operation puts heart and soul into making unique biodynamic wines.
For vineyard visits, you can’t go wrong by dedicating a day to the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail. Andrew Murray Vineyards is a must-do, and Demetria, also on the Foxen Canyon Trail, is absolutely gorgeous.
Where to Shop
If you fancy yourself some Chardonnay, Liquid Farm pours some of the best in the Santa Ynez Valley. This vineyard produces Old World-style wine that simultaneously embraces the local Santa Barbara County viticulture and climate.
And don’t miss Story of Soil, helmed by vintner Jessica Gasca, whose operation puts heart and soul into making unique biodynamic wines.
For vineyard visits, you can’t go wrong by dedicating a day to the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail. Andrew Murray Vineyards is a must-do, and Demetria, also on the Foxen Canyon Trail, is absolutely gorgeous.
If you find yourself with free time in between tastings, mosey over to Wendy Foster for a quirky mix of laid-back luxe (think linen popovers and beaded necklaces). Los Olivos General Store is the perfect spot for take-home trinkets and apothecary goods, and Avec Moi Decor specializes in classic Americana (cowboy boots included). Speaking of cowboys, Jedlicka’s is the place to be for authentic hats, riding gear, and boots.
If it’s homeware you’re after, check out J. Woeste, a charming garden shop, and Global Eye Shop & Studio for tableware, artisan ceramics, candles, and more. Gallery Los Olivos hosts local artists working in various mediums, from watercolor to sculpture.
What to Do
To get the full Los Olivos experience, visit Clairmont Farms, a family-owned lavender farm, for a picnic in the fields, or take a private, guided horseback ride through the hills and vineyards of wine country through Vino Vaqueros; beginners welcome.
The town hosts an annual Jazz & Olive Festival each June, and The Inn At Mattei’s Tavern constantly has programming on-site at the property, from cozy holiday events and delicious olive oil tastings to their “Meet the Maker” and “Girls Gone Wine” series, where visitors get access to exclusive, small-lot wines; these unique experiences offer insider access and conversation with passionate winemakers (and sometimes sampling of future vintages!) Check the Inn’s Experiences page for the most up-to-date happenings.
